When the morning air in the forest is fresh and clear and invigorates all the senses, at the same time the first hot rays of the summer sun shine through the trees, then it’s time for cockles. Some of the best include slightly peppery early mushrooms. But not only chanterelles bloom in July, garlic also has a season, albeit a longer one: garlic tastes good in summer, but horrible in winter.
Anyone who has accidentally ordered spaghetti aglio e olio from the Italian restaurant around the corner in January probably knows what I mean: the pervasive musty – sulfurous smell of the gates of hell is one of my friendly associations. Just as I don’t use “fresh” tomatoes in the winter, garlic doesn’t come into the kitchen when it’s snowing outside (exceptions can be made for sauces or stews, the smell of smaller amounts of garlic will disappear with longer cooking time). So for chanterelle pasta, make sure to use fresh garlic, now is the time. It can be young garlic or mature garlic – but freshly harvested and dried for a couple of weeks at most: the onion looks crisp and strong, no green shoots have formed inside the cloves, and the smell is pungent, but also fresh, by no means autumn. unpleasantly sulphurous. Garlic tastes good even raw, grated on toast or very briefly heated, like spaghetti aglio e olio, but even better than roasted garlic. A subtle, sweet, aromatic cream made from gently braised garlic cloves gives my chanterelle sauce just the right delicate consistency.
Another use for roasted garlic: Grilled porcini mushrooms with roasted garlic fennel salted butter.
Pici with chanterelle mushrooms and baked garlic sauce
- 500 G thick, long pasta, eg: pici, spagettoni (thick spaghetti), bigoli Pici, spaghetti, bigoli, spaghetti
- 2 tubers garlic (about 125 g) garlic
- 2 Federation parsley (80-100 g) Parselly
- 400 G chanterelles
- 7 el olive oil
- 6 el breadcrumbs
- 1/2 tsp Chipotle chili flakes or dried peperoncino pods Chili, peperoncino
- 200 ml Celery juice (from the juice counter, buy ready-made in a health store or squeeze it yourself – see tip) celery
- Salt pepper
1. Preheat the oven to 160 degrees with circulating air. Cut the garlic bulbs crosswise with a knife so that all the cloves are split. Pour 2 tablespoons of olive oil into a small pan. Place the cut sides of the garlic in the bottom of the pan and brown. Then bake in the oven for 20 minutes until soft. Meanwhile, wash and dry the parsley. Cut the stems very finely, chop the leaves – not very finely. Cut the stems or leave them out completely only if the parsley stems are really thick and therefore stringy. Clean the mushrooms, rub with household paper if necessary, wash only if absolutely necessary and dry immediately, cut large mushrooms in half.
2. Let the garlic cool down for a while. Squeeze the soft garlic out of the skins. Toast the crumbs in a dry pan, stirring often, until golden brown. Add 2 tablespoons of olive oil, mix and roast for a while – if you wish, you can add a little chopped thyme or garlic to the crumbs with oil.
3. Cook the pasta al dente. Just before the noodles are done, sauté the chanterelles in 3 tablespoons of oil over high heat for 3 minutes. Add the chilli and parsley stems and stir. Deglaze with celery juice, bring to a boil, stir in garlic puree and parsley. Drain the pasta, reserving a cup of the pasta water. Carefully mix the pici with the mushrooms and bring to a boil again, adding a few spoonfuls of pasta water and a small drop of fresh olive oil if necessary. Serve and sprinkle with toast crumbs.
Tips and variants:
You can either squeeze it yourself or buy it from a juice counter. One perennial gives about 300 ml of juice – season the rest with a pinch of salt and cumin and drink. The juice tastes surprisingly good and full-bodied also in soups and sauces. Celery juice is bottled in a health store.
Variant with veal broth
I learned about roasted garlic and parsley sauce as a cook in Milan, as a side dish for meat dishes. Of course, the carnivore version goes well with the pasta, if you want to try it, use veal instead of celery juice – please cook it yourself or let someone cook it nicely (ready-to-eat products mostly consist almost entirely of water, color and chemicals).
They taste good, but above all you should avoid food waste – how do you get the best crumbs? Cut the stale bread into slices and dry completely on the stove, coffee maker or other warm place. Turning on the oven for this is a bit outdated, but it is also possible if necessary (around: 110 degrees circulating air) sometimes the residual heat can be used in the oven – for example, after roasting the garlic bulbs intended for this recipe. Either roll stale bread into crumbs with a rolling pin, grate it on a grater or crumble it in a food processor. Which method works best depends on the type of bread and personal taste. If you wish, you can also sift the crumbs and use, for example, finer for schnitzel, coarser for pasta – or vice versa. In any case, store the crumbs in an airtight container.